I've changed the order of this page so that from top to bottom it reads in chronological order. Click here to jump to the latest progress.
Tuesday 30th March 2010
Started on the front hub caps. Chucked the chunk using the reverse jaws on the Boxford, faced off and bored out the recess in the back side. Had to gring a HSS tool of the right radius for the inside. Turned out quite well as it happens. Judged the radius from the drawing as 3/8 on the outside, which with a material thickness of 3/32" made the inside rad 1/8". Judged it from the workshop set of drawings, which are photocopied onto A3 from the "real" ones, trying to get one component per sheet. I mention this nausea 'cause if I'd noticed the rear hub cap drawing I would have noticed that it actually gives a radius dimension. It's a lot smaller than 3/8"... And I reckon they should match. Bum. So do I re-make the front ones or make the rear ones wrong to match...?
Anyhoo - once the recess was bored, re-chucked the cap holding it on the bore turned the outside shape.
Thursday 1st April 2010
Started the second front hub cap before going out to drink lots of beer. Mmmm - beer...
Friday 2nd April 2010
Finished the second front hub cap. Got a bit carried away with finished the caps, and ended up polishing them to a reasonable mirror finish. Hmmm. Is this something which would have been done on the real thing? A quick surf shows about 80/20 painted to polished. But most of the polished ones seem to be brass. Hmmm... I can always paint them if I decide it'll look naff.
Saturday 3rd April 2010
Made the outer hubs. Held the casting in the reverse jaws to face it and bore the hole. Turned it around and gripped it on the bore to face the edge and the other side. I also intended to bore the recess at this setting, but cocked up when working out how much the jaws would protrude. This meant that I had to rechuck using the outside to finish the bore. Ground another form tool to make the rad on the outside edge. Did both parts at the same sitting to minimise pratting about with changing the chuch jaws.
Sunday 4th April 2010
Made the inner front hubs. Similar method to the outers. Another couple of form tools for yet another radius of inside and outside corners.
Thursday 8th April 2010
Waiting for the front wheel rims and one of the hub castings - filed up the three driving pin retaining plates. Not terribly happy with the result...
Sunday 11th April 2010
Made the three driving pins.
Monday 12th April 2010
As I mentioned - I wasn't happy with the retaining plates I made so I re-made them following a visit from the "let's-make-things-as-complicated-as-possible" fairy... Made some tooling to allow them to be milled on the rotary table.
Tuesday 13th April 2010
Finished off the driving pin retaining plates. Much more betterer!
Thursday 15th April 2010
Made two of the driving pin "handles". Realised I mis-read the dimensions on the drawing and therefore made the spigot on the end of the driving pins themselves 1/8" too short. Which means that I can't peen over the end to retain the handles. Bum. Welded them instead, which worked fine. Phew.
Friday 16th April 2010
Finished the third driving pin.
Sunday 25th April 2010
Started on the spud pan. Cut the 3" diameter hole in the middle - found the centre by putting a centre punch in the vice and moving the spudpan around until it balanced. Hit the centre with a hammer and voila - centre pop right in the, well, centre...
Also cut the two slots for the axle. Deeply unpleasant job - filing the slots to size made some astoundingly horrible noise. Yet more apologies to the neighbours...
Monday 26th April 2010
Marked and drilled the 4 2BA holes in the spud pan top ring.
Saturday 15th May 2010
Went to the MJ Engineering open day at Reading SME but there was no-one traction engine related there... So I picked up my front wheel rims and the outstanding hub casting and came home via the brewery. :-)
Started machining the hubs. Very iffy looking setup... There didn't look to be much meat on the castings at all, so I thought long and hard about the sequence of operations. First I took the outer diameter on the accessible half to diameter so that I could take the minimum possible off the face, which I did next. From this point I used a large revolving centre to support the free end of the casting to make the setup somewhat less iffy. Then took the minimum off the inside faces to make the correct distance between them. Then faced to the correct flange thickness. This way I had the maximum meat to take off the other half. At this setting I also machined the radii on the inside of the flanges and the accessible outside radius.
Turned the casting around in the chuck to get access to the other end and repeated the first few steps above.
Sunday 16th May 2010
Did the second hub casting.
Here are the tools used in making the hubs.
Made an arbour to hold the hub castings for finishing.
Set up on the rotary table in the milling machine for milling the spoke slots. Scribed a line across the two flanges first so that the casting could be turned over for machining the slots in the other half. Aligned this using a wiggler in the milling machine spindle.
Monday 17th May 2010
Bent the blanks for the knee irons using the vice brakes. Once again they coped well, although I think this is getting towards the upper end of their (and my vices) capabilities.
Got the donkey saw going cutting out the blanks for the tyre bending vice thingies.
Tuesday 18th May 2010
Lashed up a rig to mark the radii on the knee irons. It occurred to me that since they are fitted either side of the axle that the centre of the radii needs to be on a line parallel with the vertical part but half the axle width away. Made sure the rig was big enough to accommodate two of the irons at once so that I was guaranteed to make two pairs. ;-) Drilled the holes in the curved section and started hacksawing away material where possible.
Finished off the tyre bending vice thingies for the front tyres. Played around with lengths of tyres to get the correct spacing - I'm not sure about the instructions in the book which says fit them one at once so that the last one can be cut to the correct size - doesn't that mean that there will be 3 long and 1 short one? Will it show? It certainly won't have the tyre gaps aligned nicely with the spokes like the drawing shows. Not sure what to do with this one.
Also, how to bend the very ends of the tyres? Because there is a space between the bending points, there will be a straight portion at each end. Will the rivets pull them in? Stick the very end in a vice and bray it with a hammer? Once again dunno...
Thursday 20th May 2010
Started bending the tyres for the front wheels. The raw material has clearly been guilotined from a sheet, which means that it's slightly "quavered". No problem, I thought, the action of bending it will pull it out. No, it doesn't. And thinking about it with hindsight there was no way that it would. So now I have 4 tyres which are bent in two dimensions. Harumph. There are also straight sections at each end of each tyre, just as the computer predicted. Speaking of which, I decided to use a bit of CAD to see what the length of the blank needed to be to produce a bent tyre to fit the rim. Good job I did, the difference in length between measuring at rim level and half the tyre thickness above the rim makes a surprisingly big 4mm difference in the length of each tyre segment...
So trying to make the wavy tyres fit was very frustrating. So I gave up and went out for some food and beer.
Friday 21st May 2010
Thought a lot during the day about how to get rid of the short straight sections at the end of each tyre segment. Also solicited ideas from several people. Decided to try making a short "saddle" using the boring head set to a diameter about 3" less than the rim diameter. Pressed the tyre into the saddle using one of the vice bending thingies and voila! It bent the ends of the tyres a treat. Phew. A bit more work made the tyres fit tolerably well so I started fitting them. Got two done (bolted on...). Need to think about how to rivet them next...
Saturday 22nd May 2010
After a quick trip to the miniature steam day at Holycombe and a spot of nodding off in front of the tele, went out into the garage and drilled and bolted the third tyre segment on. Then ran out of 5BA nuts. D'oh.
Sunday 23rd May 2010
After a few trials, it seems that the 1/8" rivets aren't difficult to form, especially into a countersunk hole. It turns out that my 1/8" rivet snap, with a 1/4" spacer behind it in the vice means that the wheel hangs against the front of the bench. So I got the first two segments riveted on, only the very first rivet had to be cut off and re-done (the wheel must have jumped in the set). This on the hottest day of the year with the back door of the garage open. Yet more apologies to the neighbours... (I had to put on my ear defenders!) So I stopped after two segments and drilled and bolted up the fourth before lighting the barbie for some scran!
Monday 24th May 2010
Riveted the remaining two tyres onto the first wheel. Quite pleased with it!
Tuesday 25th May 2010
Drilled the holes in the palms of the front wheel spokes. Marked out the first one then set up the mill accurately on a mark, drilling that hole in each spoke before moving onto the next mark.
Thursday 27th May 2010
Made three rivet snaps for the 3/32" rivets for the chimney but strap. Used silver steel so they can be easily hardened.
Friday 28th May 2010
Hardened and tempered the rivet snaps. First time I've tried anything like this in anger. I now understand what all this "dark straw" stuff is about. Whether I've done it right is another matter however! Time will tell...
Saturday 29th May 2010
Time to build my first wheel! Decided to use the milling table as the "base" upon which to build. Centred the wheel using a small scribing block clamped to the hub. It's not absolutely round... but centred it at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions.
Bending the spokes takes a long time to get right. The first spoke took an hour to fit. The subsequent spokes took about half an hour each. Long job...
The acid test comes when the first side is done and the clamps are released. Will it run true?
YES! It does! I'm a happy bunny! Tomorrow we shall see if it still does after the second side is done.
Sunday 30th May 2010
Well, the description of how to do the second side of the wheel was very "Haynes" - it just said to turn the wheel over on the jig and repeat the process of the first side, except that the spokes have to be laid on the underside of the T. Hmmm - how do you drill through the spokes into the rim?!? In the end I decided that the spokes on the first side should hold the wheel straight if the fit of the second side spokes is good enough... (!) That allowed me to remove the wheel from the jig to drill through the spokes.
The finished wheel runs pretty true - it's about 1mm out of round (which is due to the steel rim) and less than 1mm out of true. I don't actually know if that's good enough, but perhaps more importantly I don't know how I would improve it...
Still not sure about the radii or the finish on the hubcap though...
Thursday 25th August 2011
In the time between the last update and now I've been trying long and hard to find out why I can't rivet. No matter what I tried I couldn't get the spoke rivets to form properly. I've tried a hammer, then a bigger hammer. I've made multi-stage rivet snaps, I've use some "tried and tested" snaps kindly lent to me. Nothing. Then I tried with a friend looking on who noticed that my vice appears to be mounted on swiss cheese and wobbles a great deal when the hammer hits, thus dissipating the hammer blow energy.
Ok - so I'll try a fly press. I've heard that they are plenty sufficient to do the job, and fortunately a friend has one he can lend me. So he lugs it over to my place and we manhandle it onto the bench and bolt it down. Make up some snaps to fit it and...
...more abject failure. It occurs to me that if the bench is that whammy (it never seemed so before!) that the energy from the fly press handle could be going into trying to tip the press over, the force not being resisted by the bench.
So I'll give a 10 ton hydraulic press a go - we have one at work. Success! So, off down to Machine Mart to invest in one of their 10 ton bench presses.
Now the problem becomes one of how to rivet the hind wheels - I can probably use the same setup to rivet the fronts. So I came up with a design and set about making it... Which brings us bang up to date. The rig is finished, just need to make yet MORE snaps to fit it.
Meanwhile I advanced a bit in the fitting of the tyres to the second wheel. I really hate that job. They're now cut to length and fit tolerably well - trouble is I can't remember how well the tyres fitted the first wheel, and I'd like them to match!
Wednesday 21st December 2011
Fitted three of the tyre sections to the second front wheel.
Thursday 22nd December 2011
Fitted the remaining tyre section.
Thursday 5th January 2012
Started fitting the spokes to the second front wheel.
Friday 6th January 2012
Finished fitting the spokes to the second front wheel. Counterbored the fixing holes for the outer hubs instead of countersinking them. That way they can be made to fit the bearings without the countersink bolts pulling them out of line. No choice but to countersink the holes for the inner hubs though - they're on show...
Wednesday 18th January 2012
Made a couple of silver steel rivet snaps. Having done so it turns out that I need to slightly modify my riveting jig. Did that too.
Tuesday 14th February 2012
Well, after lots of faffing about with silver steel which wasn't, heat treating the right stuff badly and nearly wrecking my huge riveting jig I have finally got one of the front wheels riveted.
If I were being picky some of the spokes have witness marks from the rivet snap, and the rivet heads aren't absolutely perfectly formed, but it was a tradeoff between having perfectly formed rivets and spreading the spokes. The heads are, however, in a perfect line. Which they sure as hell wouldn't have been if I'd formed the heads with a hammer...
Wednesday 15th February 2012
Riveted the other front wheel. Once all the rivets were shortened and deburred it took 55 minutes. Excellent investment, that 10 ton hydraulic press!
Tuesday 21st February 2012
My pot of solder paint arrived today. When looking for some, there were several places which would sell 15ml of the stuff for about 11 quid. More searching revealed that 250g of the stuff could be had for about the same price. Look for car restorers, not model / model engineerging shops...
Sweated both hubs together.
Thursday 23rd February 2012
Went out into the garage to continue milling the 3rd shaft / hind axle bearing housing and saw to my horror that both front wheels were as rusty as ****! Took over an hour with scotchbrite to get them back as they were. I presume the heating burned off any grease / oil on the surface and allowed the metal to corrode in double quick time. Be warned!
Monday 27th February 2012
Turned and fitted one of the front wheel bearings. Quite pleased - the bearings had to be knocked into the hub - not hard, but they wouldn't push in by hand. Also used Loctite so it'll be tomorrow until I can tell how well the wheel runs. Fingers crossed...
After a bit of research online I aimed for between half and one thou clearnace between the axle and the bearing. Made up a plug gauge to help.
Tuesday 28th February 2012
Made the front wheel oiler tube.
Decided that rather than continue fighting a losing battle with rust on the wheels (since sweating the hub parts together I've been constantly having at it with Scotchbrite) I would give them a coat of primer. Did the first one. Which, incidently spins just fine on the axle.
Made the second wheel's bearing. Slightly worse this time - the outer section of the bearing didn't need any persuasion to enter the hub. Have to rely on Loctite to centre it and keep it in place. The outer section needed a little more force, but still not as much as the first wheel. Have to find out tomorrow if it spins as well as the first.
I also spent a little time working on the stationary engine.
Tuesday 28th February 2012
The second wheel also runs nicely. Got that sprayed with a couple of coats of primer too, after making the oiler tube. Forgot to mention that the pins holding on the wheel retaining collars need to have a flat filed on them so they can be fitted, otherwise they foul the wheel hub.
Did some more on the stationary engine. Made the remaining two parts for the basic engine - might even get to try it on compressed air tomorrow, if I can work out how to set the timing and come up with some sort of alternative to graphite string.
Sunday 22nd July 2012
Finally got back out into the garage. Spent a couple of hours sawing stock into strakes. Sawed the first ten by hand until I remembered that the big green thing behind me is a donkey saw...
Having sawed them all, the first edge was milled. Got ten done before hunger got the better of me.
Monday 23rd July 2012
Finished the first edge milling on the remaining 62. Set up a stop on the vice, milled one strake to length and set the DRO to zero. Did a dozen to final length before the mill started making its iffy noise. I really need to rebuild the head... Otherwise I'm convinced that one day it'll go bang and I'll crap meself.
Friday 10th August 2012
In the time between the last entry and today I've finished all the strakes and the tie plates to length. Need to drill the holes next.
Fettled one of the hub castings a bit and took a skim off one face after setting it up in my big 4-jaw as true as possible.
That was it for today - still feeling a bit fragile after a day spent at the Great British Beer Festival...
Saturday 11th August 2012
Finished off the jig to drill the holes in the strakes - milled the slot to length at the correct angle.
Drilled almost all the first half of the holes before the mill made its 'orrible noise. I'm going to have to strip it down and get it fixed before I start anything else major.
With the mill out of commission until it's cooled down, I took a facing skim off the second rear hub.
Swapped to my smaller 4-jaw so that the faced side of the hub could sit on all 4 reversed jaws (the big chuck's jaws are too big to be reversed this way with something as "small" as the rear hub!). Took a facing skim off the other side of both hubs. Very pleased to find that they are parallel to more or less measurement accuracy.
Sunday 12th August 2012
Aligned the hub more accurately in the 4 jaw before facing one side to thickness, taking note of the overall width of the hub, so that when a suitable amount is taken off the other side it turns out the right thickness. Turns out that the gap between faces on my castings are greater than the drawing, so the flanges are slightly thinner. Not too much to worry about though.
Bored out the central hole, before turning it around and facing the other side to thickness.
Did a few more of the strakes - wasn't long before the mill started playing silly buggers this time. I'm going to have to rebuild the bloody thing sooner rather than later I think.
Bored the recess in the back of the first of the rear wheel hub caps.
Monday 13th August 2012
Drilled a few more strakes. After these are done (maybe another two days) I will begin stripping the head of the mill down. It's starting to get right on my nipples.
Set the second rear hub up in the 4-jaw and faced one side almost to thickness. This one is more uneven than the first... Bored out the centre hole.
Bored the recess in the second of the rear wheel hub caps.
Tuesday 14th August 2012
Finished drilling the strakes. Now the mill can be taken apart in an attempt to find out why it's making such horrible noises. Wish me luck...
Sunday 7th April 2013
Finally got back out into the (cold!) garage. Finished off the second rear hub cap and made a second set of front hub caps. Not terribly happy with the matching of the radii on them so I might have to touch them up slightly.
Still haven't touched the mill though.
Saturday 29th June 2013
Progress at last! Well, a bit...
Finished off the second rear hub to width.
Took a skim off all the rear hub cover plates. Noticed that there is virtually no machining allowance on the outside profile of the hubs. I'll have to think carefully about where to bore the holes on them.
Oh, and the mill is now in pieces. Or rather it would be if I could get the lower pulley off the motor shaft. Sort of lost for inspiration truth be told. If anyone has any ideas please let me know...
Sunday 20th October 2013
Spent a couple of really quite boring hours finishing the hind wheel tie plates - milled all 4 sides and jig drilled the holes.
Big milestone though - it was all done on the newly fixed milling machine!
Saturday 22th March 2014
Well, with the next SCMTEG meeting next weekend, I thought I ought to get out in the garage and actually do something...
Got the tie plates rivetted to one hind wheel. First marked around the wheel circumference with dividers - took three goes before the marks met up sufficiently well. Drilled the holes, then bolted the tie plates on the outside of the wheel. Aligned them by eye to the wheel rim and then drille the other hole using the tie plate as a template.
Tested with the 2BA bolts that the plates would pull in to the curvature of the wheel - they did, so I then counterbored holes in the rim and rivetted the first plate in. Once I had the rivets about the right length I tried rivetting a flat tie plate in to see if the rivetting process would pull them in to the rim curvature. It did - which makes the whole job a hell of a lot quicker.
Used my angle grinder to get rid of the excess rivets. I need to be more careful using that thing - it took bloody ages to file the angle grinder marks out of the rim. One down, one to go.
Spot the mistake...
Question is, do I do the tie plates on the other rim or take the first rim as far as the strakes?
Sunday 23rd March 2014
The decision is to finish the one wheel. Spent a hugely frustrating couple of hours marking the positions of the strakes mounting holes. Lessons learned:
Drilled the 36 first holes for the strakes and got about a third of them bent up. The book is right - once you get the hang of it bending the strakes is really easy. Quite theraputic actuallly...
Sunday 13th April 2014
No update, but both wheels now have the strakes and tie plates fitted and riveted. The second wheel was finished in about 1/4 of the time the first one took. Marked out on hole for each tie plate and strake all at once, which saved a lot of time. Drilled the other tie plate hole the same way as the first wheel. Bolted the strakes on using a single bolt then drilled one other hole. Using a rivet dropped into the second hole I then drilled the other two holes.
Riveted the strakes with the strake held in oritentation by a rivet dropped through another hole. Not using bolts saved loads of time, and also saved trashing bolts by stray hammer blows.
Got rid of the grinding marks on the strakes using a 120 grit angle grinder flap disc. What a fantastic bit of kit! Why did no-one tell me about these things sooner?!? They do make an awful lot of dust though. Still clearing that up, and I think I'll be finding it for some time.
Took a while thinking about the setup for milling the spoke slots in the hubs.
Marked a datum on the nose of the hub by clamping them to an angle plate and adjusting by eye. Measured using the height gauge to the top of the bore and then moved it down half the diameter of the bore. Scribed a line on both "halves" of the hub so that they can be turned over in the milling setup without losing registration.
Mounted the 4 jaw on the rotary table - had to make some tee nuts with rounded ends first. Centered the rotary table, then the 4-jaw on the table and then the hub on the 4 jaw. Phew. Got my moneys worth out of the centering indicator!
Marked a line on one jaw of the chuck so that the flip side / second hub can be set to the same orientation.
Finished the edges of the spokes so they can be measured to determine the slot width in the hub.
Decided to sleep on it before mullering metal just to make sure I haven't done anything stoopid...
Monday 14th April 2014
Milled the spoke slots in one half of the first hub.
Tuesday 15th April 2014
Drilled 4 holes in the hub and cover plate - two for bolts and 2 for dowels to align the two halves repeatably.
Wednesday 16th April 2014
Set the first hub back up on the rotary table to mill the slots in the other side.
Drilled and bored the hole for the driving pin.
Thursday 17th April 2014
Set the second hub up and milled the slots on the first side. Also made a couple of dowels and Loctited them into the first hub.
Friday 18th April 2014
Flipped the hub over and drilled the driving pin hole.
Saturday 19th April 2014
Milled the slots for the spokes in the last side.
Set up the first hub in the lathe 4-jaw ready to drill and bore the central hole in the hub cover plate.
Sunday 20th April 2014
Bored the central hole, faced to width and bored the recess for the hub cap on both side cover plates. Fortunately, I put the dowels and screws in the same relative positions for both hub cap cover plates so I could do both outer cover plates using the same hub setting.
Sadly, that forsight (OK - luck...) didn't extend to the inside cover plates, so I had to turn around and re-centre the hub.
Unfortunately again, whilst doing all the above I managed to shear the topslide lock screw and so had a crash course in how to disassemble the damned thing. Very fortunately I had amongst my meagre collection of imperial screws the right size to replace the sheared (non-original) bolt. The sheared portion also drilled out very nicely indeed. Still cost me an hour and a half though - not that I'm building this thing against the clock - fortunately... ;-)
Monday 21st April 2014
Finished the inside hub cover plates in the lathe.
Set up the hub on the mill centred on the driving pin hole. Drilled and bored the outer hub cover plate for the driving pin. Because I norsed up the relative positions of the dowels and bolt holes I'll have to reset the hub the other way up to do the inner cover plate driving pin holes.
Tuesday 22nd April 2014
Bored the other outer hub cover plate driving pin hole.
Set up the other side of the hub to drill & bore the other inner hub cover plate driving pin hole.
Drilled and bored the first inner cover plate.
Wednesday 23rd April 2014
Drilled and bored the other outer cover plate.
Thursday 24th April 2014
Set up the rotary table on the mill again. Realised that the hub has to go "outside" down - so the spoke slots are facing the jaws of the 4-jaw chuck at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions. No go. Damn.
Took the rotary table off the mill again. Clamped the hub directly onto the table and centred the table on the central hole using the centre finder. Great bit of kit, that. Then found the position of the driving pin hole. Rapaired to the PC to CAD the seven holes, then rotated them to match the actual (machine) position of the driving pin hole then dimensioned the seven holes relative to the central hole. Back to the workshop.
To find that four of the seven holes clash to a greater or lesser extent with the dowels and screws positioning / holding the cover plate. Arse.
The lesson here is to read the drawings ahead of the just job you're doing at that moment.
Saturday 26th April 2014
Filed the nearside hub assembly up. Looks pretty good actually!
Worked out on the mill the closest I can get to the specified positions. Back to the CAD to work out if it's a go-er. I can get the bolt holes on a 3.856" PCD instead of the drawing's 3.75" PCD.
From the drawing it loos like I will be able to get away with this dimension - it would be good to have the bevel gear in my hands to check it for real. Emailed MJ Engineering to see if they have any in stock.
Sunday 27th April 2014
Set up the hub yet again, clamped directly to the mill table and clocked the centre hole, and the driving pin hole. Once again back to the CAD to determine X & Y coordinates of the stud hole positions for the hub cap fixing. Drilled both hub caps and cover plates on the same setup. Tapped the cover plates & drilled the hub caps 5BA clearance.
With any luck, that's the last time I have to set up those damned hubs. Wish I'd never taken the rotary table off the mill after milling the spoke slots...
Tuesday 29th April 2014
Spent twenty minutes filing the second hub. Going to take a bit of time this one - it's slightly more mishapen than the first.
Wedesday 30th April 2014
Bit more filing on the second hub.
Friday 2nd May 2014
Did a bit more filing of the second hub.
Saturday 3rd May 2014
Tried masking the weld of one of the hid wheels with Isopon P38 (car body filler). Applied it with my finger (in a rubber glove). Have to wait and see how it turns out.
Started to make the jig for driling the spoke rivet holes.
Sunday 4th May 2014
Finished off the spoke rivet drilling jig. For some reason I've got something wrong with this - it's ~1mm out on one side. And I have no idea why. All the dimensions seem to be correct, and yet it's still out. Confused...
Difficult to tell if the wheel looks better or worse. Gave one side of both wheels a quick coat of primer to see what they look like under a coat of paint. Difficult. The one with the bare weld almost looks better than the filled one, which will take some serious fettling before it looks ok.
Sunday 5th October 2014
Finally (!) finished sanding the filler intended to make the hind wheel welds look better.
Whether it's done so remains to be seen.
Set the wheel up on the mill and centred it in much the same way as I did with the front wheels.
Sunday 12th October 2014
Over the past few days, the first 8 spokes have been fitted. The spoke palm drilling jig has been deployed successfully. Pics to follow...
~3mm of runout on the wheel rim though. Bit unhappy about that. I'll be trying to get this down before I start on the second side spokes.
Saturday 9th April 2016
Well, since the last update all the spokes were fitted except three. The wheel then sat on the mill table for some considerable time until now, when the last three spokes were fitted. Woo, and indeed, hoo.
Used the damned solder paste again once all the spokes were fitted, then took the propane torch to it to hopefully flow the solder but perhaps more importantly get rid of that bloody aggressive flux to stop everything in the workshop from going instantly rusty. Seemed to work, but it's quite difficult to tell.
Saturday 7th May 2016
Got one rivet in each spoke. The runout on the wheel is probably within 1mm both radially and axially. Good enough for me! This is the setup (lashup!) I used:
After much experimenting, decided that the rivets should be a total length of 19mm to get a good head. Took ~4.7 tons, the same as the front wheels, which is nice.
Made a few modifications to the riveting jig. Added a roll pin to stop the moving anvil dropping all the way through the jig, and put a small hole in the ram so that a pin can be inserted to keep it up and out of the way whilst maneuvering the wheel. Also discovered that a small neodymium magnet is very handy for keeping the rivet in place whilst said maneuvering takes place.
Got all the rivets done on one side before the lure of beer proved too great...
Sunday 8th May 2016
Made a little block to ease marking of the rivets prior to cutting to length.
Got all the riveting done for wheel one. Once all the rivets were cut to length and deburred, the riveting itself took 35 minutes. So that's just under 1.5 minutes per rivet. That press was a damned good investment...
The final runout seems to have pulled in slightly - still around 1mm both axially and radially.
Sunday 3rd July 2016
Picked up the bronze for the rear hub bushes at the Guildford Model Engineering Show yesterday. Have to be careful with this - there's not much spare meat in the chunk...
Carefully roughed out one end (used a bell centre to support the far end) so that it would fit in the 3-jaw hole. Turned up the other end to finished sizes. Flipped it, holding the part on the newly machined surface (using brass packing pieces) and started finishing the first end.
Monday 4th July 2016
Finished the outside to size and roughed out the bore.